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SYSTEM 96 FUSING INSTRUCTIONS
"Part of the beauty of the glass is the smooth surface. Not quite
'float glass' smooth, but close enough for easy cutting
and clean, straight breaks.
The high-points of textured glass create open valleys between the glass
layers (when fusing). These valleys will either
capture air or allow it to escape depending on your firing technique.
You can capture air (create bubbles) by
passing quickly through 1100oF - 1350oF temperature
range. This allows the outside edges of the glass to become
sticky quickly. Once they stick together, it's like sealing a zip
lock bag: all the air that remains between the layers
becomes permanently entombed in the form of bubbles (unless you later go
hot enough for them to burst through
the surface).
To minimize bubbles we can use a "squeeze" technique. By soaking
the glass at 1250oF for 3 to 5 hours, we allow
the layers to slowly relax and "squeeze" the air out through the textural
valleys before the edges are sticky enough to
seal.
Also System 96 does not need an overglaze for devitrification as much
as regular Specrum glass does.
This does not mean it is totally absent, especially at full fuse.
So go to it - and have fun.
Kiln Shelf Preparation
You should experience no significant difference with Spectrum glass by
using the kiln wash and shelf
preparation techniques you normally use. We get fine results using Bullseye
Shelf Primer and
following the instructions on the label. If you mix your own kilnwash,
we recommend a mixture of
40% Kaolin and 60% Alumina Hydrate by weight. We do not recommend shelf
primers that contain
calcium carbonate. Fiber papers work fine with Spectrum also.
Overglaze Instructions
Spectrum glass might need an overglaze when heated above 1300°F (704°C).
" Super Spray," produces
excellent results. Here are some tips"
CLEAN GLASS THOROUGHLY with warm water. Oil or grease spots can be removed
with
ethyl alcohol. Spray or brush an even coating of spray to the tops and
edges of all glass pieces that
will be exposed during firing. It may be necessary to spray top-layer pieces
before assembly in order
to coat glass edges. THICK spray trapped between glass layers will not
fire clear.
"Super Spray" needs a slightly heavier coating than does "Spray A."
Spray black glass heavier than you do other glass colors.
If your project will have "exposed" edges that are not healed by the fusing
process (either fused on
edge or edges removed after fusing), apply a light coat of spray between
glass layers to prevent
crystal growth over time.
NOTE: If you use the new clear SP100FSF fusing formula glass over
another piece of Spectrum, you
can skip the spray procedure above. The clear fusing glass will take
care of it.
EXAMPLES of Spectrum Fusing Glass over other Spectrum glass.
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Using Iridescent Glass
System 96 iridescent glass fires with no problem. With regular Specrum,
at bending and slumping
temperatures, Spectrum Iridescents produce very interesting effects. However,
the coating can
withstand temperatures only up to about 1400°F (760°C), and then,
the
results vary. Maximize your Iridescent effects at high temperatures by
fusing with the Iridescent
surface against the kiln shelf, and minimizing time spent above 1400°F.
Firing & Annealing Guidelines
Proceed to the Firing Guide below for a table of suggested time-temperature relationships for fusing and slumping Spectrum products. Read the definitions carefully . . . and enjoy!
Firing Guide
The firing and annealing steps outlined here are those we've found most
successful for projects two
or three layers thick (about 1/4 to 3/8 inch). We've included both fusing
and slumping guidelines for
small (4 inches), medium (12 inches) and larger (20 inches) projects. Of
course, these are only
guidelines, not strict rules. You'll need to adjust your times and temperatures
based on the
characteristics of your equipment, the actual size and thickness of your
project, and the aesthetic
effects you wish to achieve.
Free Advice: Be sure to clean all sides of your glass pieces thoroughly
before stacking. If you're
using a thick ceramic mold for slumping, increase annealing and cooling
times. In general, acquire
great patience; vast amounts of work have been lost due to removing glass
from the kiln too early.
Wait until you can safely place the project on your bare belly.
Definitions:
Ramp Time: The time required for kiln temperature increase or decrease.
Use the amount of time
stated in each step for your kiln to transition from its current temperature
to the next stated SET
POINT, in consistent degrees per minute
SET POINT: The goal kiln temperature in any given step.
SOAK TIME: The length of time to maintain the current SET POINT
before executing the next
step.
FLASH VENT: A quick-cooling step to be executed when the fuse or
slump reaches VISUAL
MATURITY, according to the judgement of the artist. Instructions:
FLASH VENT for Fusing: TURN OFF KILN POWER. Open kiln for 8 seconds, then close.
FLASH VENT for Slumping: TURN OFF KILN POWER. Open kiln for 3 seconds,
then close.
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